I was content with my head nestled against my pillow but deep inside the void of slumber, I knew it was one of those classic East Coast Saturday mornings. I semi-wondered what its like outside and without even moving my body I could see what a perfect day it was out there.
In my sloth like state, I heard a car pull up out the front. A screech of the breaks was a bit of a give-away as to who it might be but my suspicions hang like the thin fog of this particular autumn morning. Three knocks at the front door and I’m still trying to guess who it is exactly. I lay there, waiting and listening. I can hear the silence of the house and the birds outside but not another hint as to who this phantom visitor may be. I grab my watch and try to focus my vision. It’s urgently blinking at me as if to say, “Fuck, its 8:08am already!” Suddenly footsteps are heard on the grass outside my window and a shadow appears on the curtain. “Mmwarrrrrtin!” A loud, high pitched voice whales an elongated version of my name and I instantly know who it is. My girlfriend leaps forward with a gasp and grabs the safety of the bed sheet. Confused and annoyed, she hides her half naked body and snarls, “Allan, what the bloody hell are you doing!?” “Morning Casey, I’ll just let myself in round the back! Marty’s here yeah?” She looks at me, squints her eyes and kind of smiles too. “Lucky its Allan.” She whispers and rolls over to enjoy a few more moments in slumber. I pull on the closes pair of jeans I can find and open the door to greet Allan in my living room. I’m dazed with confusion and the hangover isn’t making things any better. “Oi man, its pumping. Lets go! Nath up yet?” We gather our wax, zinc and boards on the front lawn. My new peanut butter coloured 5’4 Simmons is laying before us all. Un-waxed and shimmering in the morning sun, It has never been ridden but sure enough, we were in for a treat. Moments later, I find myself sitting in the passenger seat of his Nissan Pulsar, heading down a dirt road in hot pursuit of the remainder of the last swell. By this time, He has already drank enough coffee to send his excitement levels to 10 and the thought of surfing a secret beachy with a new board is driving him insane. We pull up and find a little peak to ourselves with nobody else out and the boys make a B-line for the ocean.
This short story and these photos all unraveled over the Easter weekend. It was one of those weekends that everything just falls into place. Good waves, boozy nights and quality friends and its safe to say, since then, A hell of a lot more has happened.
Stay tuned for some more work!